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  • Headlight wiring

    Hi all, I'm hoping somebody can help with a wiring problem I have.

    I'm in the process of restoring/customising a '91 Yamaha XT225. It had stood in a field for 12 years or so and needed plenty of work. It now runs so I'm definitely on the final stretch thankfully....started first time too....really pleased as I've never done this kind of thing before.

    So, my dilemma. The bike was originally wired to have the side light and taillight on all the time with the indicators also lit as running lights. I've removed the indicators, dummy lights from the dashboard area and all safety relays.....mainly as they were broken and don't want to spend a fortune replacing them....Haha.
    I now have a simple horn switch and an identical starter switch on the bars. The key ignition is my way of killing the bike.
    My intention is to have one more switch in the middle of the bars, this would activate the tail light, speedo backlight and headlight. The headlight will only have a dipped beam as I won't be doing any night riding on green lanes but would like to be visible on the roads.

    I've already gone into the loom and ran a wire from the tail light to the front of the bike, I'm just not sure how to wire up the headlight and speedo, What type of switch to use, etc.

    ​​​After looking at some of the bikes on here, I'm hoping someone will be able to help.

    thanks in advance,

    Michael.


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  • #2
    Hi Xug,
    First you will need to locate the live wire for the lights in your bikes loom. This will run from the loom to the switch on your handlebars and will be a single wire.( i will talk about the switch in a mo ). so you now have the "lights" wire running to your switch somewhere on your handlebars, from this switch you can simply run 3 wires out of the switch ( 1. to the headlight - 2. to the speedo light - 3. to the tail light. ) .
    Then you can switch your bike on with the key and no lights will come on and drain the battery, then once the bike is started the switch on your handlebars can be switched on and bingo light .
    ( i would suggest running a single wire out of the switch into a connector block then the 3 wires for the lights out of the other end of the connector block because soldering 3 wires to a switch is very tricky)
    Basically when you turn on the bike with the key, power will go up the lights wire to the switch, the switch will cut the power to the lights until it is switched into the position that completes the circuit to the lights. you can run as many lights (within reason) off of the lights wire.
    Don't forget you will also need to run a negative from all 3 lights into the bikes earth loom.
    A simple 2-way On/Off switch from ebay will do the job and cost a couple of quid and will look neat.
    On your headlight you could very simply run dipped and full beam if you wanted to and its worth checking out what M.O.T's require before you do all the wiring.
    To run dipped and full beam you simply - from your switch the wire running to the headlight add another 2-way ON/ON switch.
    This will have the wire running in from the lights ON/OFF switch to the second ON/ON switch and then one wire running to dipped from the switch in DOWN position and then from the other UP position a wire running to the beam. so when you switch the light on you can then switch DOWN on the other switch for dipped or UP for beam.... make sure you buy a ON/OFF switch for the lights to come on or off and a ON/ON for dipped/beam and dont mix them up when you buy them because they look the same.
    Your headlight will probably have 3 wires coming out of it one for dipped, one for beam, and one for earth.
    ive tried to write this a simple as pos and hope this helps....
    good luck chum.....

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    • #3
      Thanks wisp.

      the reason I was opting for no main beam is due to needing a dummy light to signal the main beam being on. According to the mot tester( a friend) if you can't see the light then you need a dummy light hence usually having an indicator warning light.
      I could use your idea with the second switch and flick between sidelight and dipped beam.....I like that, thanks .
      Regarding the loom, I've had it off the bike, Replaced all connectors and checked for continuity etc.
      I currently have a bunch of wires at the triple clamp waiting to be fitted with connectors. The live and negative have need splicing properly yet, didn't want to do any of this until I'd fathomed my switch issue. That way, it can all be done neatly and tucked in being the headlight.

      your explanation was perfect, thanks again.

      ​​

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      • #4
        Hi chum, If you want to add the beam option to your headlight and have a high/beam warning light thats easy too...
        The wire that i said comes from the ON/ON second switch to the beam light , simply add 2 wires together from the switches BEAM position, one wire to the beam light its self , and then the other wire you can run to your handlebar area and add a little blue led light to indicate that the headlight is in the beam position. then when you switch the second switch for high beam the beam headlight and warning light will come on together.
        You can buy very nice little led warning lights on ebay for about 2 quid each, they are about 5 or 6mm wide and i simply drill a little hole threw my top yoke and add them.
        i usually add a green for my neutral light and blue for beam and red for oil and yellow for indi's.

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